Blogs from the field
Dublin and the surrounding area, Ireland
8th-10th November 2007
By Katherine Boyle
Why bother with heritage? Well, I suppose our Irish taxi driver did have a point. In a country experiencing great economic growth and development, the vast and extensive heritage of the Emerald Isle can be seen by many as a thorn in the side of progress. The commuters who travel daily from Navan to Dublin no doubt fully support the creation of the new M3 motorway, but the scheme is not without its objectors.
We stood on top of the magnificent Hill of Tara; one of the five sacred royal seats in Ireland where 143 Kings have reigned. With a breathtaking 360 degree view of the countryside north-west of Dublin it is no wonder that the ancient Kings chose it as the spot for their feasts, ceremonies and worship. The strange grass mounds, processional ditches and Lia Fail (Stone of Destiny) have born witness to over 6000 years of history. A much revered dwelling place for pre-Christian gods, the site is bursting with legends and mystical cosmic alignments.
Accompanied by Vincent Salafia from TaraWatch we met many of the protesters who have kept a vigil fire burning inside a tepee at the site for nearly 18 months – a very impressive feat considering the cold temperatures. Their passion for the preservation of the site was equally impressive especially from those who grew up in the local area.
Next we visited the atmospheric church on the Hill of Skreen at the other side of the valley and looked back towards Tara Hill. The construction of the M3 is well underway and upon completion it will divide the valley in two, not to mention wiping out many important archaeological sites. When alternative routes are equally viable options it seems ludicrous that this scheme which will cause so much damage is still going ahead. We left with a real determination to try to help protect the site.
Tara for now?
This is a critical time for Tara. If a current case to the European Union fails in the next few months, the scheme, despite uncovering an ancient amphitheatre in its tracks, will be completed and quite simply destroy one of the most important places in Ireland.
Heading for Headfort
Continuing up the N3 we eventually pulled up outside the austere Headfort House. Its unadorned exterior seems at odds with the intricate neoclassical decoration inside, a formal backdrop to the clutter of the school's pupils. Guitars, rugby balls and school books looked strangely at home under the Robert Adam ceilings, and it was wonderful to see the rooms being used and so obviously loved by the school. Its function as a school has saved the house from multiple alterations and additions
We had come to investigate the Adam rooms, armed with recent drawings by the conservator of the original scheme, so that we could compare the two and see the difference. And what a remarkable difference there is; WMF funded research has recently revealed a far more intricate and complex design than that which was previously thought to be by Adam. The pale, wishy-washy colours now visible will soon be replaced by the original scheme based on a much stronger and deeper green colour. We were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of this on the Stairhall ceiling where the redecoration has recently begun. The discovery and instigation of this new scheme is very exciting and it was a privilege to be able to see it first hand. Once completed, as the Irish say, ‘Ah sure, it’ll be grand’.
Heading for Headfort
Hedging bets at the Casino
Our final stop was Sir William Chambers’ exquisite neoclassical creation of the Casino (a pleasure villa) at Marino. We were here to evaluate for ourselves the possible effects of a proposed planning development which will see a Medico-Legal Centre built in an adjoining field. On arrival I was immediately impressed with the level of detail on the building, and the surprisingly contemporary expressions on the lions guarding its steps.
We were also struck by the disappointingly close proximity of the Casino to nearby homes and buildings, but then again, we were in the very centre of Dublin. Playing fields and houses occupy much of the space around the Casino which was originally one of Ireland’s finest designed parkland landscapes. Significant stretches of this historic parkland still survive with the possibility of being restored to create a more suitable setting for the Casino, and so WMF Britain are going to support the Irish Georgian Society in objecting to the new developments. When we had finally finished posing for photos with the lions we left Dublin and reflected on just how much built heritage this country has to look after.